The chinking is the flexible insulating sealant you. When mortar was used on some specific joint designs, they developed stress cracks and the nails used to help hold the mix during the installation rusted and allowed the cement to pull away and sometimes fall out. The exterior of a log cabin is created out of two central visible components: the logs and the chinking. Every year before winter hit, everyone was out “chinking” the home in preparation. When the logs moved, expanded or contracted, the products used to seal could not adjust with the log movement, and other gaps were then exposed. They all lacked in adhesion to the wood as well as flexibility. Roofing tar or oakum would be used as chinking as well.Īll of these compounds were considered a very temporary solution. In the Northeast, log home owners would often soak tree moss in water and drive it into any openings that it could be pounded into. And since I can't chink from the outside, due to the siding on the house, I want an insulation which isn't vulnerable to air-infiltration.īut of course I do not want to toxify my old naturally-built house.Wood slats were once placed in between the logs at an angle then covered with mud or a combination of mortar mixed with horsehair. The gaps get large enough that I want a real source of insulation in them before chinking. I will attach a photo so you all can see. When you hire us for our services, you can count on us. So my question is mostly whether there is a problem with lingering off-gas problems with single component spray foam. We specialize in log home restoration, including staining, chinking, media blasting, and power washing. It seems that its mostly two part foam, mixed incorrectly by operator error.
And mostly about off-gassing of single component spray foam.
My question is mostly about insulating behind the chinking. It is embedded in expanded metal lath which has been air-stapled into the gaps, and it doesn't come out easily - even when you want it to. Up here, people use a white Portland cement based mortar to achieve a white masonry chinking which works well and looks very sharp. And I understand the newer chinking materials. Chinking drastically improves a log homes energy.
#Chinking log cabin professional#
I'm from Vermont, too, the Shrewsbury and Plymouth area. What is chinking Chinking is the sealing material that fills the gaps between the logs in a log home. Here is a collection of Albion guns and accessories that have found wide acceptance among professional installers of chinking in log homes. Homes that have not been properly maintained may suffer harm as a result. The cost of this sort of log cabin upkeep can range from 3,000 to 7,500 for a typical 1,500-square-foot residence, depending on its size. In 2013 Martin Holladay wrote “I’ve never heard of lingering odor problems with one-component foam.” Response # 138 in:Īnd if not foam, what other product would you suggest? I think mostly of jamming Roxul in the gaps, but its not much of an air infiltration barrier, and since there’s no exterior chinking, there would be cold air movement right through the Roxul and up against the interior mortar chinking. The cost of resealing and repairing log cabin chinking can range between 2 and 5 per square foot. There will be a fair amount of foam to be used, maybe almost 1000 linear feet of gap to be filled. But I am worried about off-gassing long term. The obvious insulation would be single component spray foam in a can. I want to insulate between the logs before re-chinking with mortar. A traditional log home constructed of individually-cut rough (and varying-in size and shape) logs is shown in our photo at left. The house has been strapped and sided on the exterior, so I only have access to the interior. Gaps between the logs vary from 0″ (touching) to almost 5″. I am renovating an 1872 log farmhouse and have torn out the chinking between the logs.
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